20th February 2020

Musings.......

Love in the time of Corona

First Anniversaries are always the best. It is time to evaluate the past 1 year of togetherness and also to reminisce on the days as we got ready to take the plunge into adulthood. Thinking on how to make the day memorable, as it was our first, it was me reading the Atlas one day, when I found the archipelagos in South Asia interesting. Located in the “Ring of Fire” region, these islands are notorious for its frequent earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. 

Then by chance we happened to see few photographs on Instagram where we found the scenic beauty of a particular island Bali, in Indonesia as striking. 

Notwithstanding the “Ring of Fire” status myself and my better half decided months back that we are going to spent our anniversary in this island deep in the Indian Ocean. Earthquakes and Volcanic eruptions could happen anywhere we thought, neglecting anything that could impede our visit to the island archipelago. 

It was as if God had other plans in store for us, or he overheard our denial. A month prior to our aforementioned visit, a never heard before, zoonotic viral disease- the now much established novel Coronavirus 2019 ( nCov-2019) started spreading in Mainland China. 

Being a southeast Asian island and having  direct flights to Wuhan, we thought our Bali trip was all but over. 

Then surprising news came in the form of prompt banning of flights to Wuhan by the Indonesian authorities and no reported cases of Coronavirus in Bali and Indonesia.  

Initially skeptical about the results, we started doing research on it. My doubts hovered on whether Indonesia had the necessary reagents needed to detect the virus. However days and weeks passed and there seemed to be no official confirmations of the virus spread to the island. Our travel plans were given a fillip when I entered the online stream of fake news and twitter feeds to check on the virus and even there Bali was considered a safe spot. 

Since we had already purchased tickets, what was left was to enquire with our travel agent, who messaged his counterpart in Bali and got a green signal - that all is well.  Again skeptical of travel agents, who do not want you to cancel your trips, I decided to contact someone in Bali directly. This is when my wife finds out one of her friends from college was holidaying in Bali at the moment. 

We immediately contacted her and started packing our bags.  Our Anniversary trip was not going to be washed out after all.  

Then came another obstacle in the form of rising cases of Coronavirus in Singapore. Our transit to Bali was through Singapore, as there are no direct flights to Bali from India. I immediately checked online and surfed through whatever I could find on newsfeeds and websites on Singapore’s condition.  Still there were rising cases however, it was Singapore !! - they have one of the best surveillance, governance and health systems in the world. 

Getting in touch with relatives in Singapore was easy and learning it was ok to transit was all that we needed to jump into the car and drive to the airport. 

Our flight Scoot, the budget version of Singapore Airlines, was waiting for us and as we hopped on like two eager travellers, we had no idea on what was in store for us ahead. 

The only flight from Thiruvananthapuram to Singapore, our expectations on Scoot were pretty high.  It was maybe our expectations that did us because what we saw made us sigh. It was really a budget airline!  Even our own Air India would have been better. However, we were in no mood to feel dejected as the only thing in our mind was the destination.  The four and a half hour flight to Singapore was crampy and rude crew members did no good.  Only positive was the In- flight magazine where I learnt they had direct flights to Coimbatore and it was a must go city-  oh the irony! 

It was early morning 6 AM when we touched down in Singapore, 15 minutes ahead of schedule. Having spent part of our honeymoon in Singapore, the majestic Jewel Changi Airport was not new to us, however each time you reach the airport, you cannot but take in the sight.  After our initial excitement and stunned admiration subsided we started searching for our onward flight. Having landed in Terminal 1 we had to take a train to Terminal 2. Singapore’s infrastructure is something otherworldly where everything works like clockwork. 

Terminal 2 happened to be even beautiful than 1, however we did not have time and had to rush to our gate. I entered the Singapore airlines flight to Denpasar, Bali making a mental note to explore Jewel Changi airport on our way back. 

If you are thinking how was the Coronavirus situation in Singapore, we went with N95 masks and numerous hand sanitizers. Wearing masks we saw Singapore was pretty prepared for the worst. There were thermal monitors in every step. If you had a temperature, you would be quarantined was their policy. However I was left wondering, what would one do if they were in their incubation period - for Coronavirus it is 14 days!! 

Maybe it was because of our experience with Scoot, the Singapore airlines flight that we saw was beautiful.  A jumbo jet airline, our economy seat felt like the business class of Indian Flights. Fully equipped with inflight entertainment, tasty food and beautiful crew- getting reprimanded by my wife for gawking on them I may add-, our only complaint was the flight lasted only two and a half hours hours.  Seeing an array of islands from the window with crystal clear blue Indian Ocean made us jump in excitement. My first impression on the island as we landed was how rich and sophisticated it looked. It was as if I had landed on some Eastern European city- not that I have been to one ! 

The Ngurah Rai International Airport, named after a local hero, in Denpasar was small but well maintained. Immigration was swift, nothing like Changi and their thermal sensors. In fact the person sitting behind the temperature checking counter was fast asleep!! I mentally noted how safe it was to not check temperature but then who cares. I had just come for my holiday and nothing else mattered. What greeted us was scorching heat, when I remembered Bali was near to the Equator - it was beyond tropical- and Coronavirus stood no chance in this heat and moisture. 

Our guide was named Putu- a local - of whom I would come to later. We were stuck by the beautiful roads and modern cars, and the greenery all around.  First thing we did was get out of our N95 masks. My wife had a load of hand sanitizers which we decided to use amply as enhanced precaution. However, I again doubted if Coronavirus would survive in this beltering heat!! 

We were directly lead to a place called Seminyak, which was a seashore township. Roads narrowed from the airport as we neared closer to our Hotel. We passed another well known town called Kuta. Both sides of the road were filled with all sorts of restaurants, eateries, night clubs, party places, exotic stuffs. It was 11 am local time when we reached and we mutually decided we have to roam these streets by night. 

Our first day was to be spent in a boutique hotel called Peppers in Seminyak. We were accommodated in a one bedroom pool villa according to our itinerary- which happened to be my mother’s hand to the trip as she insisted we stay in a pool villa for a day.  What transpired within us would be very difficult to write down.  

The pool villa was the perfect anniversary setting complete with a pool, Buddha statues, beautiful lighting’s and even an outdoor TV, sofa and a kitchen. Seeing the villa I felt we are not going to see much of Bali - because it was that beautiful. Lunch and tea went swiftly and it was suddenly dusk. 

Not wanting to waste time and the urge to explore the city, we decided to explore Seminyak. As we expected the city at night was more beautiful than by day. Well lit with its bustling restaurants and eateries the city was very active. We decided to spent the night in a cozy seaside restaurant with the ocean view. In the excitement we had walked a long way from the hotel and post dinner we felt it was prudent to take a taxi back to our hotel. The taxi driver was friendly and a chatterbox, and we learnt all we could about the bustling Seminyak and nearby Kuta. We were apparently right in the middle of the most happening place in Bali. This is when I realised and said - much to the amusement of my wife- that I should have visited this place as a bachelor!!  

Second day in Bali. We woke up early and decided to explore the hotel after breakfast. Much to my amusement we found multiple temples in all corners of the property.  The deity was Nature- fire, water, wind etc.  We were even more surprised to learn, every home in Bali had a temple of their own and numerous temples all around. More than 80% of the population was Balinese Hindu and were much influenced by our epics such as Ramayana and Mahabharata. 

Time flies and it was time for us to checkout of Peppers. It was with a heavy heart and tinge of sadness that both of us checked out of our pool villa. For once we cursed our guide and driver for being on time. He reached exactly at 12 noon sharp and was waiting for us at the lobby when we reluctantly walked our way out. Some memories stays with us for long and that day spent would stay in our memory for long. 

As we moved ahead, heavy hearts started to melt and sadness got replaced with excitement of what lies ahead of us. 

We were then taken to Taman Ayun Royal Temple. It was a water temple surrounded by a water body on all sides. We learnt it was water pumped directly from the river. As I was wearing shorts, I was made to wear a sort of green shawl to hide my legs before entering the temple complex!  

Cock fights used to happen in the temple which had a monument for it and was conducted as a Pooja. The temple was under the local kings patronage before they handed it to the government. However, festivals- connected to harvest- were still conducted under royal patronage. We saw the unique Balinese architecture and pagodas which was a sight to watch.  Goddess of Grain statue was remarkable and revered. We were then led to a video demonstration of the history of the temple, the royal family who looked after the temple and their unique mode of cultivation - the Subak - where Rice was grown in step cultivation pattern.  

Hungry we learnt our guide was not fond of food! We were promised food but taken to the next destination on our itinerary. Tanha Lot was a seaside temple which got submerged until a few years back in high tide. The Japanese government built sea walls around it after which the 800 year old rock cut temple was preserved from imminent ruin.  The view of the temple from the rock cliff of Tanha Lot while we had our much delayed lunch from one of the numerous shacks was exhilarating. 

The carvings were cut out by the waves over the years and shaped by the ocean. Many pilgrims wearing white clothing traversed the high tide to visit the temple including us. 

Lunch consisted of the local delicacy - NaSi Goreng ( Indonesian Fried Rice).  Chicken was Ayam, Duck was Bebek and Pork was Babi apparently in Indonesian. 

There was a sudden downpour and we were drenched. Plastic raincoat bought from the local stall - of which there were many - did little help. We were told evening showers were common in Bali because of the latent heat and moisture. 

Drenched and feeling elated and happy we roamed the cliff taking in the view of the temple and the sunset.  As darkness crept in we slowly walked hand in hand towards the parking lot where our guide was eagerly waiting with umbrellas!  It seemed he didn’t understand the concept that umbrellas were needed before you get wet and not after. 

We drove back in silence, taking in the rice fields near the sea temple area giving way to bustling streets and neon lights. Nightlife was the main attraction and Australians apparently considered Bali their second home.  

It was just a 3 hour flight from Darwin, Australia helped. Also the exchange rate with Bali - One Indian rupee is 208 Indonesian Rupiah, One US dollar was around 13,500 rupiah and an Australian dollar would get you 9000 rupiah!!  The highest denomination note was 1 Lakh! Yes you read right - 1 Lakh!  And everyone was a millionaire in Bali!!  1 Lakh Rupiah would amount to something like 500 Indian Rupees! 

I had dosed off and my wife tapped me when we reached our destination. We were going to stay the rest of our trip in an Ocean view resort in a place called Nusa Dua- which was the southernmost point in Bali with a stunning view of the deep Indian Ocean. 

However we reached at night and tired from the days escapades, we both bundled into our rooms and were immediately fast asleep.  

Third day in Bali - we had planned to Watersports and so we got up early and by 9 were all set to be driven.  Promised by our travel agent to be a splash day - it literally was a splash. For the first time in my life I must admit, we did a sea walk - with oxygen cylinders and all- saw few corals and exotic ornamental fish including Nemo!, the only dampner being the excruciating earpain when pulled deep into the oceanbed- I may have experienced Decompression sickness if I’m not exaggerating, for the first time while my wife went through it with such poise and thoroughly enjoyed it.  

Not much of a physical person and feeling a bit ashamed at my predicament, I too tried to act cool in front of her - thought being the better half she found out my lie immediately!! 

The male chauvinist in my could have cropped up a bit I must say and I decided to overcompensate for the next adventure which was Parasailing followed by Jet skiing! 

The Parasailing and Jetski I must have done well as my wife complemented me - or was she making me comfortable ? - god only knows. Anyways it was all good fun, she enjoyed the experience is all that mattered and my male chauvinist in me was well fed!  Both of us walked off that beach with promises to do Parasailing again and me saying to myself - Seawalking never again ! 

After having lunch in a nearby seaside restaurant, we were driven back to our hotel where we changed. 

Back on the road in the afternoon, we were led directly to a place called Uluwatu on the far west side of Bali. There on top of the cliff was Uluwatu temple complex dedicated to Nature gods, a huge statue of Monkey king- Hanuman and a seaside cliff amphitheatre.  

We took tickets to the show in the amphitheater where we watched scenes from the Ramayana in a local enactment called the Kechak- where no instruments were used instead people made noises which gave the background music to the play. I was happy to watch Sri Raman, Lakshmanan, Sita Devi, Hanuman and Ravanan, Garudan all unfolding in front of

our eyes and couldn’t but think of our rich Indian culture which had reached to a place as far flung as Bali- thanks to our Kalinga dynasty and its voyages as far as Bali and Sumatra- which is now celebrated every year in Odisha as Baliyatra during Kartika Poornima. 

As if on cue it started pouring immediately as the Kechak show ended and we had to rush back. Driving back to the hotel and this being the penultimate day of our trip- an idea suddenly struck me. 

On reaching the hotel we said goodbye to our guide.  We decided to go back to Kuta for dinner.  Having changed and freshened up with adrenalin oozing- we took a taxi from Nusa Dua all the way to Kuta. 

Meanwhile our taxi driver advices us to go to a place midway between Kuta and Seminyak, called Lagyan and promised it to be the most happening place in Bali.  

His words turned out to be true and we had an enjoyable outing and dinner and were back to our hotel well past midnight. The streets of Bali I must say are safe even at this late hour.  The taxi services are available 24/7 and the people are all too polite and gullible. Our taxi driver only charged us half our fair as we were tourists from India- who he thought were lost at this ungodly hour in the streets of Lagyan! 

Thought I must caution you, we were warned by the same taxi driver that we need to be careful of few money changers who indulge in fraud by paying less than promised. 

Fourth and final full day in Bali, we woke up early and had an early breakfast. We were already feeling heavy hearted at the thought of leaving the next day and decided to make use of the day fully ! 

We were led to another tourist destination called Ubud which was a two hour journey from our seaside hotel in Nusa Dua- all the way into interior Bali.  On the way we crossed from city to the early signs of village life in Bali.  

The streets started narrowing and houses started getting smaller and more traditional architecturally. 

Smaller houses looked like temples from the outside.  There were artisans and craftsmen on both sides of the road selling their wares.  Earthen pots, wodden designs, handicrafts, stone sculptures all encompassing rural Bali were on sale. 

Hectares of rice fields were seen on both sides upto the horizon. 

On the way to Ubud our guide made a surprise stop at a house like building. We were surprised to know that it was not a house, but a centre where you could dress up in local Balinese wedding attire to click photographs. Pondering on what to wear, we ultimately decided on the Royal wedding dress. It was a one of kind experience wearing a Crown and holding a sword in hand posing for photographs with your wife who looked like she was thoroughly relishing the role of Queen ! 

Though initially reluctant, this turned out to be a once in a lifetime enjoyable experience and a memory for future years. 

As we approached Ubud it was lunchtime and we insisted we have lunch before sightseeing. We were taken to Ubud Palace and Temple Complex nearby which was a Cafe overseeing the palace complex and had the enchanting view of the beautiful architectural brilliance - that was the Ubud temple. 

The cafe was called Lotus view as the Ubud temple was surrounded by a pond on which were blossomed lotuses. 

After a lazy lunch, taking in the breathtaking view to its fullest, we reluctantly stood to visit the temple and palace complex.  Multiple tourists were already present flicking away on their smartphones. 

The palace had a Saraswati temple- the goddess of learning which was an example of stunning rock cut architecture. 

After my wife took pictures to her hearts content - which was pretty hard to be- she noticed a Starbucks cafe within the palace complex. Built into the architecture it was a beautiful place to relax and we found ourselves at awe inside the cafe and ended up ordering random things just to sit in the place for sometime. 

Across the streets was the Ubud market. Multiple bylanes where you could shop for all stuff random. This was when the woman in my wife awakened and I endured the long walk through multiple shops selling handicrafts, bangles, ornaments, bags and other nitty gritties. Advice given to us was to bargain down the prices to half of what they say- in fact one time we even got sandals at 1/10th of the price!! 

After much cajoling I pulled out my wife from the market.  It had started to Drizzle in the evening which helped too! 

Next stop was the Ubud Sacred Monkey forest. Another beautiful natural experience of forest, monkeys, stone cut architecture, and rock cut temples within. We even got to feed few monkeys and washed our legs in the stream with crystal clear water that flows through.

It was getting darker by the time we finished roaming around the forest. 

Our next stop was Tegalalang Rice Terrace on the way back to the hotel which resembled the Kerala countryside. Kopi Luwak coffee shops were abundant along the way and after much discussion we decided not to have one, after hearing how it is processed.  

Back to the hotel and aware it was our last night in Bali, we went to the beach nearby and sat there for a long time. How beautiful the atmosphere was cannot be expressed by mere words. It needs to be experienced!  

Hunger woke a mesmerised us back to our senses. We decided to try out the -Bali Collection- the nearby open air shopping area - opposite to the hotel. Walking all the way to the Bali collection it was more of a refined nightlife centre. Loud music,neon lights and clubs were replaced by refined restaurants and light melodious music which was a perfect romantic setting. 

We enjoyed a long and engaging dinner in one of the shacks where all kinds of Indonesian and Italian food were served. I must say despite the setting the food was cheap and affordable as is Bali altogether. 

Full and content we walked back to the hotel dreaming of the past year and the years to come.  

Finally, last day in Bali. We woke up late and thanked my wife’s instinct to have packed our bags the previous night. After rushed baths we got ready and beltered down for breakfast. Our guide was to transport us to the airport by 10:30 for the 1 pm flight. Half an hour to the airport we travelled through the newly made seaway toll. 

In fact according to our guide, the Joko Widodo led Democratic Party, now into their second term in power in Indonesia was doing pretty well.  All the infrastructure that we saw in Bali including the seaway was his Governments contribution. Almost 90% of Balinese voted for him in the previous elections. 

I just hoped as we travelled on the seaway - if only we had a Government which focused on Infrastructure development rather than Statue and Mandir building!! 

Joko Widido in his early 50s are considered as young and anti-establishment man. He is considered cool by the local youth and the man to take Indonesia out of poverty.  I had read in the local English newspaper the previous day that the President, as we were in Bali, was on a visit to Australia to sign a trade deal. 

The never ending beautiful seaway led us to the airport swiftly bypassing the National Highway notorious for its traffic jams. Singapore airline staff was polite and prompt to check us in. As we bid adeu to Putu chettan as we called him, we saw a speck of tear in his eyes. We promised him to call him whenever we were back to Bali and bid him adeu. 

The short flight back to Singapore was enjoyable with inflight entertainment and good food. Not to overemphasise on their model like female crew who my wife had became weary of. 

As we landed in Jewel Changi the reality started slowly dawning on us, that our trip was coming to a close. 

We had a stopover of 5 hours in Singapore as the Scoot flight back to Thiruvananthapuram was only by 8:30 pm local time. 

Our N95 masks and hand sanitizer were back in business and we started roaming the airport. We traveled on foot on all 4 terminals, connected by sky trains, taking in the breathtaking wonders along the way.  

My wife feels she surely saw Bollywood Actress Anushka Sharma on a buggy in Terminal 3 though I was not sure until she showed me Anushka Sharma’s Instagram story from Jewel Changi ! 

After much roaming around we settled into a Subway in Terminal 1, had few snacks and were off to our gates past multiple temperature monitors. 

Singapore was reeling under Coronavirus which by then was renamed Covid-19. It seems Chinese influence over tiny Singapore had done them in. It was in stark contrast to Bali where everything was as good as normal and the last thing on Balinese mind was Coronavirus, though I must mention there were nill Chinese tourists in Bali. 

Finally we entered into Scoot, we had been allotted the second last seat and the crew were again so rude. Cattle class is what came to my mind and as the crew serving dinner- I felt a bit like children thrown food packets at a concentration/labour camp which I conveyed to my wife who burst into laughter and agreed. 

Touchdown in Thiruvananthapuram was by 11pm. We were screened for temperature by some visibly bored medical professional. We reached home just at the stroke of midnight completing our short anniversary holiday- or should I say - Love in the time of Corona !! ? 

Food for thought.......

RC